Pearl Grading 101

Pearl Grading 101: What You Really Need to Know Before Buying Pearls

Thinking about investing in pearls? You’re not alone. Pearls are stylish and timeless... meaning they are always a good buying decision!!

But here's the catch—many jewelers aren’t as knowledgeable about pearls as you’d expect. Even those who specialize in fine jewelry sometimes have staff who can't tell you the difference between freshwater and saltwater pearls—let alone explain why one strand might cost $500 and another $10,000.

That’s where Pearl Grading 101 comes in.

Hi! I'm India Rows, founder of ThePearlGirls.com. I have spent my entire professional life studying pearls, purchasing pearls for The Pearl Girls collections and repairing vintage pearls.

If you're shopping for pearls, don't go in blind. With a little insider knowledge, you'll be empowered to make smart, informed decisions—and maybe even impress your jeweler along the way.

And, if all else fails, shop with me! The Pearl Girls has an amazing collection of genuine cultured pearls! I travel the world hand selecting pearls for our collections! Shop online or get in touch! We love talking pearls!

First, the Truth About Pearl Grading

Unlike diamonds, pearls don’t have a globally accepted grading system. Terms like “AAA” or “A+” are completely subjective. One company’s AAA might be another’s B-grade. To put it in perspective: diamonds are graded from D (the best) down to Z. Why D? Because before the official system was created, jewelers were already using A, B, and C. Pearls never got that universal standard.

That’s why it's so important to understand how pearls are evaluated. Experts rely on seven quality factors when grading pearls. Let’s break them down:

1. Size

Pearl size is measured in millimeters. All things equal, larger pearls are typically more valuable because they take longer to form. A difference of just 1–2 mm can have a big impact on price.

2. Shape

Roll a pearl across a flat surface. Is it perfectly round? If so, it's among the most prized shapes. Pearls come in seven basic shape categories:

• Round

• Near-round

• Oval

• Button

• Drop

• Semi-baroque

• Baroque

Round pearls are the most rare and expensive, while baroque pearls offer a more organic, artistic look.

If you have a collection of pearls that have the same origin and ALL 6 quality factors are the exact same, the pearl closest to round will be the more valuable pearl.

3. Color

Color includes two elements: body color and overtone. Common body colors are white, cream, pink, and silver, while overtones might appear rose, green, or even blue.

While color is often a matter of personal preference, rare and vibrant hues ca command higher prices.

But, beware, some pearls are simply dyed!

So, color is decriptive however, it can indicate a higher priced pearl. It can also indicate the origin of that pearl!

4. Luster

This might be the most important factor. Luster refers to the shine or glow of a pearl—how well it reflects light. The higher the luster, the sharper and more mirror-like the reflection.

Pearls with excellent luster look radiant and vibrant, while dull pearls appear chalky or flat.

Over time, pearls with a higher luster will look better!

5. Surface Quality

Examine the pearl's surface under good lighting. Tiny blemishes or pits are common, but too many can reduce the value. Surface quality is often graded from:

• Clean

• Lightly blemished

• Moderately blemished

• Heavily blemished

Interestingly, pearls with zero blemishes are incredibly rare—and if you find one that looks too perfect, you may want to double-check its authenticity.

6. Nacre Quality

Nacre is the material a mollusk deposits around an irritant to form a pearl. In saltwater pearls, the core often starts as a bead, which the mollusk coats in layers of nacre. If the nacre is too thin, the bead may show through, or the pearl may appear dull. In contrast, most freshwater pearls are solid nacre, making them heavier and often more durable.

7. Matching

When you're buying a necklace, bracelet, or pair of earrings, look at how well the pearls match. Are the size, shape, luster, and color consistent throughout the piece? Matching is graded as:

• Excellent

• Good

• Fair

The more uniform the pearls, the more time and skill it took to create the piece—and the higher the value.

Final Thoughts

Shopping for pearls doesn't have to be intimidating. Now that you understand the key quality factors, you’ll be able to assess whether a pearl—or a strand of them—is truly worth the price tag.

With this knowledge in hand, you're ready to make confident, educated decisions—and maybe even help someone else do the same.

Happy pearl hunting!

Love,

India Rows

Founder, ThePearlGirls.com